For the sake of simplicity, we divide skis into three different main types. Cross-country for skiing in prepared tracks. Touring skis for trackless terrain and in the mountains. Telemark skis for ski touring and free heel skiing.

Cross-country skis
Cross-country skis are narrow, light skis designed for skiing in prepared tracks. Unsuitable in the mountains, where tracks are lacking. Skating skis on a frozen crust in the spring can, however, be a way to get somewhere fast and easy if you are an experienced skier.

Touring skis
Touring skis with a width of 50-60 mm provide stability. The skis should have a waist, i.e. be narrower in the middle. They will then be easier to steer and turn. Steel edges provide confidence on harder snow, facilitate turning and make the skiing stronger.

A touring ski, like a cross-country ski, will have a camber, or double camber. This means that when you stand on both skis, there is an air gap under the middle part of the ski. When you stand on one foot, the ski is completely pressed down against the base. It is in this middle part that the ski is waxed for traction, or has a pocket that gives traction without waxing. When you stand on both skis, you glide on the front and back parts of the skis. When you press down on one ski, you get traction and can push away.

It is important to have a camber that suits your own weight and skiing ability. If the camber is too hard, you will not be able to press it down and get any traction. If the camber is too soft, you will get worse glide and the wax will wear off much faster.

Also consider that you usually have a backpack when touring – you therefore weigh several kilograms more.

 
Telemark skis
Telemark skis are made to turn. They are not suitable for regular ski touring, but there are skis that combine the characteristics of ski touring with those that make it easy to turn. These skis are thus slightly wider than touring skis and have a shorter and softer camber.

A ski for more pure telemark has no camber. It makes the skis easier to press down into the snow and thus easier to turn. In recent years, skis have become shorter and wider, which also requires stiffer and higher boots. Hence, the possibilities to use equipment for ski touring have also decreased. 

Wax or waxless?
Plastic skis that you wax yourself for traction give better glide, but if you are not accustom to waxing, you can choose so-called waxless skis. All skis need waxing to glide well and for them to not dry and break. The waxless zone should also be protected. Often with a spray wax that is adapted to the material in a waxless zone. Ask where you rent or purchase your skis.

More pure telemark skis are normally waxed for glide and complemented with climbing skins for traction. They can be waxed for traction when there is cold snow, which can make the tour up both easier and faster if it isn’t too steep.

Climbing skins
Skins under skis are nothing new. Ancient people were already using animal skins under skis, for example sealskin, to make their way easier. Among others, a shorter skin covered ski was used to make their way, while you glided on a longer uncovered ski, similar to a kicksled.

Today, climbing skins are most often of synthetic material that is stuck under both skis to facilitate getting up steep terrain. When the ski is stepped down into the snow and receives pressure down and from the back, the hairs of the skin rise and grip the snow. When the ski is pushed forward, the hairs flatten and the ski glides. The climbing skins are removed at the top before the coming descent. 

 Those who do ski touring naturally have climbing skins in their equipment, but even the individual who does more traditional mountain tours can make use of a pair. You can easily do easier alpine touring, climbing skins are a big help if and when you pull a sled, and they can be used to get traction when waxing conditions are especially difficult.

Boots
Stable boots provide restful skiing, and a stiff sole makes it easier to steer and turn skis. However, boots that are too hard or too high, like certain telemark boots, are not suitable for ski touring. A spacious and tested leather boot reduces the risk for chafing and keeps the foot warm. Avoid light cross-country boots when touring in the mountains.

A rugged binding gives the ski boot stability. When choosing a binding, consider whether you can repair it if it breaks out in the mountains. If you cannot repair it, choose another, and thus probably another boot that fits the binding.

Poles
The poles should reach the shoulders and have steel tips to break through frozen crust and ice. A touring pole should also have a large basket so that the pole does not sink down when the snow is soft and deep.